Traditional Turkmen Lady (şaýly Gelin) Worked by: H. Ownuk |
Written By: Gundogdiyev Ovez Atayevich,
the Institute of Archeology and Ethnography of the Academy of Sciences of Turkmenistan, Professor
the Institute of Archeology and Ethnography of the Academy of Sciences of Turkmenistan, Professor
Tens of hundreds of statuettes
of feminine idols, belonging to various historical epochs, have been
discovered on the territory of our country. These were the goddesses
of fertility, hearth, and keepers of settlements. They managed storms
and precipitation, mountains and plains. There were special idols for
every city, dam, every field of the farm and even for separate kind of
work tool.
With the spread in Central Asia of Islam in VII century,
cult of goddess never disappears but only transforms. Memory about
custom to carry the images of goddesses has been preserved in the name
of women’s adornment “heykel” (in Arab “altar”, in Central Asia
“statue”). In Turkmenistan,
“heykel” is called a leather or cloth bag, where probably, the
statuette of goddess and presently, the charm –prayer was put in...
Now,
it is possible to meet everywhere “dagdans” – amulets made of wood and
featuring human figure especially feminine.
Majestic image |
Women’s silver adornment
‘asyk’, which shape copies in detail the shape of terra-cotta goddesses
from South Turkmenistan dated to II century B.C., also drew attention. The images of women are met on the pendants
“shelpe”, adornment “goza”. But on the large brooch “gulyaka”, we see
slit, visually reminding women’s figure. Feminine temporal pendants
“adamlyk” and “tenechir” in whole diversity, unusually exactly reproduce
the image of great goddesses of antiquity.
Adornments of Turkmen, which remind the military armour of Amazonians,
can also testify about conservatism of Turkmen jewelry articles. Girl’s
skullcap (tahya) with silver dome and sharp canopy (gupba) copies the
steel helmet. Pendants in the form of slices (chekelik), which protect
the head from two sides, are fastened on sides of this “helmet”. Back of
the head is covered with the thick ornamented slice and pendants
“enselik”.
Turkmen Model |
Round boxes (bezbent),
reminding the military shield, cover the girl’s shoulders behind. Neck
and breast is protected by the sun-shaped disk – ‘gulyaka’. The heavy
silver hoop – ‘bukaw’, fastened in front by wide slice with cornelian
insets, is often won on the neck. Among breast adornments, it is worth
mentioning ‘chapraz-changa’. It consists of several lines of pendants
sewn on the cloth and covering the breast till the waist. It is not
difficult to notice resemblance of ‘chapraz’ with the military cuirass;
and finally, the bracelets – ‘bilezik’ that cover the hands from the
wrist till the elbow. They are so heavy that it wouldn’t be
overstatement when compared with the military armour.
Mod Salon In Turkmenistan Republic |
If we look intently at faces of feminine goddesses and rulers depicted on ancient Near Eastern
relieves then we will be able to find closer analogies of their suit in
modern cloth of Turkmen girls. Statutes of goddesses found in
Turkmenistan and dated to the Parthian period (III-II centuries B.C.)
testify that already in that epoch, the cloth of women formed its
majestic smart style. For example, high headgear, which virtually has no
difference from modern tiara-shaped headgear (boric) won by Turkmen
women after marriage, gives direct parallel in iconography of the
Parthian statuettes. Another headgear of the Turkmen women –being the
wedding one broadened in upper part and adorned with numerous silver
pendants also reminds the headgear depicted on statuettes of goddesses
of II-I centuries B.C. from Merv. It was won with robe-shaped head
tippet (purenjik), having false sleeves. Such head tippets are shown on
the images of the ancient east goddesses. Design of embroidery on
purenjik (stylized tree) and particularly on robes – chyrpy adorned with
stylized ornament and solar symbols also indicates connection of
Turkmen women’s cloth with the antique cult of fertility.
Some Turkmen ladies clothes |
All these make us to think that
the echoes of worshipping the goddesses in Turkmenistan have been
preserved till our days. The preserved imaginations about patronesses of
rain clouds Mamaka, women and children Parau Bibi, women’s distaff
‘Ashe-Patma’, spirits-peri and others can serve as conformation to this
fact.
So, owing to conservatism of the elements of suit and adornments of
Turkmen girls, we have an opportunity to follow the ancient roots of the
Turkmen people, whose history traces back to centuries. …
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